OUR OFFICE IN MALAPASCUA

Holidays in the "land of King Phillip" of Spain was just amazing. We were in Malapascua, a tiny island that you can walk the circumference in about 2 hours. In this small paradise we established our "office" for issuing the annual report, plan the next year and updating our blog.

Front beach WiFi

As work is not everything in life, we also enjoyed massages on the white sand beaches, snorkeling on turquoise lagoons, dancing at street disco, making new friends, swing in a hammock, walking through coconut farms... There are no cars in Malapascua, many motorbikes instead.

Cute little friend!

Beach massage.

Coconut farm

Malapascua does not have a port, pier or dock. All boats are anchored by the beach. The "shipyard" is also the sand.

"Sharkanoe"

Beach shipyard. Details of the Philippinean typical "spider" boats' structure.

The island is a great destination for diving. A variety of offers, such as manta rays and thresher sharks spotting, coral reefs, wreaks, are available in many Dive shops/Resorts. A dive starts from USD 35 and accommodation, as especial deals for divers, can be as cheap as USD 15 for a simple double bed cottage. For non certified divers, courses and PADI certification are available.

But, if the aim is to relax in a silent neighborhood, the option could be somewhere else. Very loud music and karaoke are widespread. Thousands of fight roosters equipped with broken clocks can ruin your rest any time of the day. However, we have to confess that, after a week or so, we've got used to all this and had a great time with locals. Whenever we heard a loud music - the "disco" - we followed the waves and had fun with this happy "Philippinos"!

Future Fight roosters eating with their mom.

When dinning, even having always minimized portions, we appreciated very much the food served in Eateries (we never heard this term before for a restaurant. Do you?). We can recommend Ging Ging Eatery: excellent value. For extreme shrank budgets and true local experience, try Mama & Jopay's eatery. For ultimate budget cold beer, stop by the Dick & Agnes's shop, in front of the main church. Can't miss.

Raquel, Agnes, Frederick and Francis, in their shop.

If you would like to find an "island in the island", The Other Place is the name o the place for good music, pool table, late evening excellent snack (ask for the burger) and a very warm welcome from Marco, Winwin and all the crew. Recommended!!!!

"The Other Place" crew and friends.
The owners Winwin on white shirt, Marco at the right.

Our friend Noa's (right) Birthday!

For Christmas and new year's eve, it's a tradition to roast a whole pig at the beach. Very interesting to see the preparation process. Basically, the main course arrives walking and after being cleaned, one single stick holds the whole pig over the ground fire. Somebody keeps turning it for about 5 hours. Manually. It is delicious! We also saw the most bizarre stick bbq's ever: squid, chicken skin, necks, feet, gizzard, liver, gut.

The local rum Boracay tastes good and is very cheap, US$ 2,5/bottle at a hotel bar. Drinks in returnable containers are much cheaper, which is a green incentive. There is no free drinking water in this country - do not drink water from the tap! But it’s easy to find water refueling spots for a reasonable price though.

All of these would be so much fun and perfect if we were not missing family, friends and black beans.

ARRIVING IN THE PHILIPPINES

Philippines is the second largest archipelago in the world. It is made of approximately 7.000 islands, 300.000 sq km. It is an island nation, so boats and canoes play a major role in many people’s lives. Majority Roman Catholic, ethnically, Philippines is a melting pot. Islands are mountainous and seismically active. Earthquakes and  volcanic eruption are common. Climate is tropical and monsoonal.

Fort SAN PEDRO, proof of Hispanic and Catholic
occupation in the Philippines

But, before arriving here, we known very little about the country, e.g., the fact that Philippines is the place where the captain of first circumnavigation voyage was killed by natives on 1521. This history was written by Pigafetta, a italian crew member of the expedition financed by Spain and leaded by Ferdinand Magellan (Fernando Magalhães), the Portuguese who's decapitation was celebrated in Mactan Island.

Part of a big panel on the site where Magellan was
killed by Mactan's people 

Also, Back into childhood, a memory about Corazon Aquino, a Philippines' Democratic President who was been acclaimed by her People after a long period of dictatorship.

But arriving here, after a 40+ days cruise in a sailboat from Solomon Islands - almost 3 thousand nautical miles - the captain tried to approach the city of Cebu, in a bay where "should have a marina". It was around 3 am, in a very dark and foggy night and reefs were shown by the charts there. We waited - drifting - for the first daylight shimmer. Completely worn out after being driven the boat for a lot of hours (we can even remember how many), we didn't notice the bay we were was the "Magellan's bay". We actually arrived in Philippines right on the spot were, literally, he lost his head fighting the Mactan's Island chief, Lapu-Lapu, now reckon in Philippines as the first nation's hero. 

Lapu-Lapu statue, in Mactan Island

Fist Philippinean Hero plaque

Magellan's Death plaque.

"1866 - REINANDO YSABEL II" 

The above obelisc is located in the same site where LapuLapu is honored as the first Philippine's Hero. Seem to be without maintenance for long period and will be probably worn out by the weather.


Later, Raquel visited San Carlos University's Library where there's a original volume Pigafetta's 1st circumnavigation voyage diary, publication from XVI century.


This is a little about the history of this country that first had repelled european invasion, even though have had it's culture and resources later spoiled by invaders.


Praises, comments, adds and/or criticism are always welcome!


dfE team 

1st ANNIVERSARY!!! One year living simple and enjoying the beauty of our Planet

The Downshifting for Earth Project (dfE) has the honor to share with all our visitors, friends, family and supporters our happiness for the accomplishment of the first year living with very low carbon footprint, while traveling in Oceania and South East Asia!

According to objectives established by the project kick off, we have indeed reduced drastically our carbon emissions from about 30 to somewhat like 4 ton/year/person (t/y/p). However, it's still about 100% ABOVE our target of 2 t/y/p!

Even with our efforts to reach that level, there are aspects of traveling that we could not reduce so far, to mention, fossil fuel consumption - although traveling mainly in sailing boats, engine is used when wind is not sailable -, our dependence on the bank services, consumption of industrialized, non-seasonal and/or imported groceries and the very calling socialization with friends in bars and restaurants.

We came to the conclusion that, to reach the targeted carbon emissions, we should either travel much less (or shorter distances) or off set another 2 t/y/p to compensate the displacements. Thus, the planning for the next period will consider  these aspects.

As important as the concern on carbon emissions, we want share our joy on learning the great cultural aspects on the going. In places like New Zealand, Fiji, Vanuatu - consider the happiest people in the world, in 2006 -, Utupua Island in Solomons, we could experience living with the local communities that live sustained on values such as sharing, deep understanding and respect for the interconnection between human being and nature, simplicity, detachment to material, respect to the ancestors, truly hospitality. All that is commonly observed among most backcountry or islands inhabitants, who live all that with immense happiness. 

We understood the greatness of traveling in real contact with genuine local people, what we could call meaningful tourism, where real cultural sharing takes place instead the usual sights-inn tourism, commonly demanding high carbon activities.

To end this first year of downshifted life, we want to indeed acknowledge Infinity Sea Tribe - a true life experience -, every single person who had visited our blog and gave us any word of incentive. Also, we want warmly thanks to our friends and family, who unconditionally and enthusiastically supported our project. Due to all this we can consider the dfE Project is a great success!

Our special words all those who - either had fed back us or not - somehow felt encouraged by us to reflect about personal carbon emissions, or in any sort of life changing project. We just want to emphasize that anyone can do anything. First steps are to be aware, calculate your carbon footprint,  dream, than decide what kind of lifestyle would fit best to your beliefs! After that, be confident, coherent, plan and execute! It works!

As the summit of our 1st project anniversary, we'd like to share one of the most beautiful lessons we have learnt in this trip: The chief of the Sangava Village, in the remote Island of Emae, Shefa Province, in Vanuatu, wisely told us that, although Climate Change impacts are already happening on his Island and on his people - who have started being relocated due the sea level rise - he calls all his community to keep living in joy, without fear, just facing what has to be faced.

We found that lesson a tonic to our project and we agree that it fits any project or dream. Even when it requires paradigms breakage, extreme difficulties, the best attitude is face them all without fear, with joy.

We wish a much better treatment for the Earth, Nature and all Humans in 2012! 

And fair winds to every one!

YES! We'll be very happy with you comments, praises, criticisms, feed back. All welcome!

Moving Planet in Utupua, Solomon Islands

As part of the 350.org campaign to build global grassroots movement to solve the climate crisis by moving the planet beyond fossil fuels, Infinity Expeditions organized week of activities in Utupua Island, Solomon Islands, starting on Sept 20^th, 2011.

People from the Utupua Village of Nembao, aware of the safe level of CO2 in the atmosfere

Last June, in Sigatoka, Fiji,  5 Infinity crew members, joined the climate leadership workshop where 50 people were representing 13 Pacific countries — Palau, Papua New Guinea, the Marshall Islands, Kiribati, Nauru, the Solomon Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Tonga, Vanuatu, American Samoa, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand. We came out from this workshop more prepared to act against the climate crisis and committed to build up the Moving Planet on Sept, 24th on board Infinity.

Watch the video produced by Infinity Expeditions and dfE:

Moving Planet in Utupua

The event in Utupua mobilized approximately 500 people in four communities, Nembao, Aondo, Asumboa and Aveta with educational and cultural activities.

We promoted seminars on climate change awareness for 300 students at Patteson High School, disposal of plastic and batteries waste at Nembao Primary School e an overview about volunteer's home countries. Actions included plastic and batteries waste collecting, coral reef checks, solar panel repair and the manufacture of over 40 sails for traditional sailing canoes, supporting this fantastic and sustainable culture. Sailing canoe is the main way for transportation in Utupua. This is an inspiration for all of us since this modal is zero carbon emission.

Sept. 24th - Zero carbon emissions day

On Sept. 24th we had cold breakfast and lunch on board, paddled and walked to move.  We had dinner at Nembao village and concluded our day listening to guitar and angelical local young voices.

Pacific climate crisis

The effects of climate change on remote islands such as Utupua, bring us the urgency of lifting the rights of people and nature over the rights of polluters. It is unfair that these people, who have a very sustainable lifestyle — use sailing canoes and hike to travel, develop organic gardening, collect rain water and use solar energy only —  are facing a series of adversities not caused by themselves. 

Sea levels rising, more accelerated over the past five years, brings very real threats to life on the islands. Systematically, the reservoirs of fresh water and crops have became salty, coastal trees which are a natural protection against cyclones are being felled. Their houses have been washed out by high tides, what provokes the islanders to relocate. The increasingly frequent and potent cyclones destroy everything in their way.

The higher seas and oceans temperature and the significant increase of plastic particles  in plankton parts are degrading coral reefs and marine life - entire food chain - leading to their death.

These facts described above impacts in a very basic need of island people; their water supply, food chain and housing.

Our time in Utupua was very fruitful and led us to call up individuals, societies and governments to do their share and get the atmosphere's CO₂ level back below 350 ppm.

Notes:

1. 350.org is building a global grassroots movement to solve the climate crisis. Online campaigns, grassroots organizing, and mass public actions are led from the bottom up by thousands of volunteer organizers in over 188 countries.

2. The number 350 means climate safety. To preserve our planet, scientists tell us we must reduce the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere from its current level of 39o+ parts per million to below 350 ppm. But 350 is more than a number—it's a symbol of where we need to head as a planet.

Crew members which joined the climate leadership workshop: Raquel, Emmaline, Francis, Laura and Annelie

Kids at Asumboa Village

Click here to see more PICTURES of this great environment and social project!

Greetings from dfE Team!

YES! We'll be very happy with you comments, praises, criticisms, feed back. All welcome

Mr. Sabu Beach. What do I have to do with it?

This is the beach of Mr. Sabu:

This is a small bay in the heart of Honiara, the capital of the Solomon Islands. Continuously, tons of garbage such as fishing boats wrecks, plastics, old tires, etc., arrive floating in this place.

After the Second World War, thousands of ships and other war equipment were abandoned in almost all Pacific islands.

Later, the fishing industry continued to use paradise islands to  dump their remainings.

Today, even computer housings are arriving in Mr Sabu's beach.

We asked the Honiara City Council if they could clean the place,  but we were informed that  Mr. Sabu should take care of trash landing on his beach. The answer was something like "this is the law" and " there is no recycling of plastic or tires in the country"!

There is Mr. Sabu. He confessed that in the first years, he tried to keep the beach clean. But...

He's got tired.

Indeed, almost none of these debris were produced in the Solomon Islands. The companies that had explored the business of plastics, bottles, cosmetics, tires, fishing, etc, had systematically abandoned  their "legacies" here after secured their profits selling the products.

Mr. Sabu never had a car, do not buy bottled water, but always lived in this small beach that bears his name. The city of Honiara grew. Himself and another two families are now squeezed between the promenade and the shore, which now has tons of garbage. Again, among these spoils, very little was produced in the Solomon Islands.

The marine life in this place no longer exists. The beauty of the "Sabu's Beach" is completely obscured by the dirt. The health of families living there is compromised. Traditional knowledge, fishing, contemplation of nature; all this had disappeared.

The causes are plural. But I see that  the corporations that sell these products - tires, plastics, ships, etc. - are running their businesses without any concern on life cycle. Bridgestone* - and all other tire manufacturers - haven't  done enough to prevent the end of their products to be like that, as in the photo. I personally shoot it.

* BRIDGESTONE Tires at the beach of your Sabu. He never had a car.

Packaging manufacturers and beverage bottlers act in the same way. Consumers of all these products - many times are ourselves - do not enjoy any better reputation. Something is very wrong in our societies.

This Mr. Sabu does not consume any bottled water. Maybe one shampoo every two years. He does not even buys chlorinated water...

Well, what each one of us has to do with it?

We could consider these questions:

Does the Company I work for is indeed taking care for their products till the end of the life cycle?

When the tire of my car is worn out, do I make sure it is going to be properly recycled or, quietly, I'd be happy to let "Mr. Hole" to kindly dispose it next to Forgotten creek?

As always, your reviews, comments and criticisms are very welcome.

REEF CHECK

Coral Reefs, festival of forms and colors - Lelepa, Emae, Maskline, Malekula e Espiritu Santo Islands, Vanuatu.

Coral reefs are biological treasures of the ocean. More varieties of plants and animals live on coral reefs than in any other ocean habitat. Throughout the ages a vast array of animals and plants have become associated with coral reefs, creating some of our earth’s most fascinating, complex and biologically diverse ecosystems. At least 350 million  people and a quarter of all ocean life depend on coral reefs for their food and livelihood.

Corals are coelenterates, a class of animals that also includes sea anemones and jellyfish.They are formed by thousand of tiny polyps grouped in colonies that attach to hard surfaces of the sea floor. Corals are basically carnivorous animals although they do get nourishment from plants, zooxanthellae, with are embedded in their tissues. Corals and zooxanthellae live together in mutually beneficial symbiotic arrangement.   Zooxanthellae gains protection, utilize the carbon dioxide produced by corals respiration for their photosynthesis and use other compounds excreted by corals. On the other hand, corals welcome the oxygen produced by zooxanthellae photosynthesis and gain an efficient elimination system that make them save energy for more important things such as reproduction and growth. Corals are generally nocturnal feeders that make them retract their polyps during the day and expand during the night. So, it is only at night that they can be visible in their complete and colorful forms.

However, the health of coral reef ecosystems is threatened by many problems. Despite the seemingly robust nature of many types, all corals are fragile and can be damaged by the gentlest touch. The most serious impact is caused by human touch. Overfishing, known as predatory fishing, and man-made pollution have devastated numerous coral reefs throughout the world - and it is getting worse. Whether this pollution is in the form of chemicals - insecticides, fertilizers, industrial effluents, etc -, siltation, oil spills, or whatever, the result is the same. Not only the pollutants kill the corals directly, they can kill them off indirectly by affecting their food supply.  This is very unlikely that man also harvest corals for use as decorations in marine motif restaurants, aquariums and private collections, for instance.  

During the last three weeks Katie Thomson from Reef Check Vanuatu (www.reefcheck.org) trained and certified Infinity’s crew for reef check surveys in the Indo-Pacific region. The training included biology, formation of corals and sea life associated with them, survey methodology, identification of substrate categories, fish and invertebrate indicators, predation actions, coral diseases, snorkel and diving survey practices on coral reefs.  

Reef Check is an international non-profit organization dedicated to bringing coral reefs back to health and keeping them that way. Reef Check’s core mission is to train teams of volunteers to monitor the status of reefs around the world. The information gathered is used to make sound decisions on how to preserve and wisely manage reefs.

Reef Check Vanuatu is an affiliate of Reef Check International trains volunteers and local communities throughout the islands to monitor their own coral reefs. The data collected goes to support community conservation initiatives and also help inform the national Fisheries Department on trends and threats to coral reefs around the country. Reef Check Vanuatu also works to encourage and support communities in using the traditional form of marine conservation which is done by the chief putting a taboo on the reef. 

Our past snorkel and diving trips were just amazing. Beyond a beautiful visual experience, they now help to preserve the fantastic coral reef ecosystem!