Thanks to all Samoans for the friendship. Driving by inland roads, many people naturally wave to visitors, showing sincere welcome. The Samoans seem to be keeping Island traditions. Men commonly wear sarong, so called lavalava. An eye catching sight are the relative’s graves commonly placed in front of villager houses, as well as the “houses of Dead”, a wallless construction built for daily pray and in honor to the family’s ancestral.
Well, time to leave. Good bye Samoa!!! Right out of the bay, Infinity was motoring until southern edge of the archipelago and finally, All Sail up!! Great to hear that Captain’s order and shut down engine. That happened on Nov 25th, some hours after take off from the Apia bay (13º49S, 171º45W), on East Upolu’s Island, in Western Samoa.
The previous route settled was from Samoa to Fiji, for a short stop by and cleaning boat’s hull, then to Auckland, where we will be anchored during the South Pacific’s cyclones season. Captain shifted Fiji’s stop to Tonga, due to probable rough whether in Fiji. Good surprise!
On Dec, 1st, we were welcomed by a group of dolphins, many tuna fish caught in our lines (sashimi for dinner!) and a wonderful ~25m visibility water in the anchorage surrounded by the paradisiacal atolls of Nomuca Ika (photo), Ano Ava and Mui Fuiva (20º16S, 174º49W).
During about 3 hours (only...), the hull has been cleaned up of weed and other creatures, including tiny crabs(!). Half hour after we finished the task, the wether changed into showers and wind enough to allow us take our way to New Zealand.
The wind was not cooperating so much, and after sailing some hours, we had to motor for about 12 hours, due to proximity with land and reefs - not a good idea to drift in such conditions. after that, sails up and down many times until the wind definitively died for almost two days. We then drifted north and south. We found ourselves about 10 nm East of an island called Ata (the latitude 22º21S, 176º07W). For two days, we’ve got the impression of being hold by the island, constantly observing us by star-side. No fish around the boat, few birds, and NO WIND at all! The swells than play the rolling torture to Infinity’s crew. With no forward move, she was rolling so wide that every loose object was flying around the cabins! Cooking was an extreme action sport.
The captain found records about an island in the Tonga Kingdom, with same name as Ata (he was not sure about this’ ones exact location) that was a prison... That was indeed weird. But when was about 4:30 in the morning of Dec 2nd, the wind finally shown off, and we started to sail 5 knots towards the course of 206º, almost straight to Auckland.
On the course, Infinity was gifted by curious Dolphins’ visits almost every day. Four days before our forecasted arrival in Auckland, an airplane has suddenly rushed about 100m along Infinity’s star side. At that point, we haven’t seen any sign of civilization for many days. The VHF was unattended due to our obvious remote location. Immediately, the First Mate got in contact with the unexpected visitor: the NZ Customs’ identified himself and asked our destination and expected time of arrival. “This is Infinity, Infinity, Infinity, we are heading to Auckland and expect to arrive in four days”. The pilot ended as: “Roger”, and disappeared in the horizon, heading west.
Few hours later, on our way from East to West, we reach the longitude 179º59,99E, the true day line, about 16:30. The crew members crossing the line first time had been charged, judged guilty and punished according to Neptune laws applicable to all dauntless creatures crossing such longitudes. A bottle of rum has been also accused of being full and properly emptied in that occasion not neglecting, surely, Neptune’s generous gulp.
The crew has been assigned for watch/cooking teams. The watch’s duty consists in steering the helm to the designated course, making sure of sails and all other navigation aspects safety, at all times and logging hourly records of barometric pressure, weather, wind and ground speed, true and magnetic course, position (gps), deck conditions, engine, generator and desalinization status (on/off) and any other relevant fact during watch. Each shift takes over 2 hour, twice a day. During cooking day, teams are not assigned to watches.During Samoa-NZ passage, duties made daily working journey of 4 hours, except while in cooking (dinner, breakfast & lunch)/cleaning duty, which takes all day.
Being in watch duty is almost fun-guaranteed. For those assigned for overnight, the sky is a fantastic nature display. We can enjoy the white of stars, shooting stars, birds (2 landed on the deck), zig-zag UFOs (assured by some crew members on duty), moon light. An indescribable beauty. If too chilly or raining (or both), of course it’s not that funny. But this is about sailing. And there was no chill resistant a generous cup of hot coffee or tea, always (almost) available in the galley.
During the day the crew can watch whales, sharks, follower birds and Dorados, colorful jelly-fish, jumping Dolphins and fish around, good music on deck, line fishing (we caught up to 8 tunas in one day!), reading and enjoyable food.
Besides watches and pleasure, all crew members are involved in environment projects of Infinity Sea Tribe organization. The main current project is the Infiftyyears, to be lunched soon in the internet (www.infiftyyears.org).
For the bio-eagle-eyed crew, is possible to spot weird and tiny creatures such as the this colorful slug (photo) found floating by the boat stern in a long-drifting day.
Food is a chapter on its own. The crew is indeed talented and can count on a library of cooking books. Infinity’s diet in this passage has been based on healthy seeds, lots of fresh tuna, amazing hand-made fresh bread, pasta, etc. Always greatly spiced by on duty chefs: Awesome! For those that think (as we did) it could be hard to eat in a boat, we can tell that Infinity is much more closed to multi-gastronomic tavern than to a junk food shop. So, we discovered and are learning to appreciate the fish + vegetarian gastronomy.
Besides food, we are increasing our appreciation for things like fishing, contemplation, Yoga, meditation, relaxing, reading and slowly tasting delicious dishes of Infinity cousine.
After 20 days passage, we arrived in Auckland, on Dec 15th and after customs clearance, we anchored closed to the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Right in the first day, we saw a giant spearfish calmly swimming through the Marina berths. A local told us the animal lives around since many years and it’s not disturbed by people or boats. Needles to mention how clean and healthy are the Auckland Bay waters, when compared to most other harbor areas around the world.
Currently, Infinity is docked in a Marina by the Viaduct Harbor. The crew is now engaged on boat maintenance and repairs and in the preparation for Christmas.
By the Dec 28th, Infinity will take off for a week sailing with about 10 New zealanders members of the LoveYourCoast organization, for a 5 days cleaning program in reefs within a natural reserve, by the Auckland Bay. The crew expects much fun and conservation action in this trip.
So, dfE members are so happy for being participating on Infinity’s live and indeed glad of making happen the objectives of downshifting consumption and traveling throughout the Pacific with so much joy!
We wish everyone Marry Christmas, an 2011 with less consumption and full of joy on simple things!
Pirate hugs!
Francis and Raquel
