Coral Beach in Yasawa Island
For a moment I suspected we were on a beach in northeastern Brazil. People are tanned, smiley, colorful costumes on, warm weather, sun, mountains, and palm trees. Our port of entry was Suva, a city where Fijians, Chinese and Indo-Fijians share space in harmony.
Kids coming back from school, in Lavena, Taveuni Island
Fiji’s food is based on roots known as cassava, yams and sweet potatoes. Very common fruits are here coconut, papaya, oranges, pineapple, and passion fruit. Leaves are widely consumed such as cassava, yams, spinach, mustard greens, green beans and cowpea. Despite many similarities, we found few places to buy black beans. Also curious is there we didn’t find salted meat or jerk meat, which is a shame in a country where many people live in remote islands with restricted access to electricity. Nevertheless, when one eats fish, is fresh! In Suva, the capital of Fiji, we spent the time to make the Customs and Immigration, supply boat fresh and Cava.
A coral beach in Lavena, Taveuni Island
From Suva we went to another 3 and sparsely populated islands, called Moala, Totoya and Matuku - Moala group. These islands are off the tourist circuit of Fiji and access to them is controlled. Before disembarking on these Islands, the visitors are very encouraged to fulfill the rituals of Sevusevu, by the book.
Navigation around coast and reefs, many reefs.
The birds found in these havens preserved and surrounded by coral reefs have been the object of study of the organization Bird International, who has been aboard Infinity on an expedition of 10 days, previously authorized by the authorities and the chief of the Fiji Islands Moala Group. During this period, we camped on the islands to observe and try to reach the birds and their nests, in particular the Fiji Petrel, a species which has very little scientific information recorded as actual occurrence and rate of increase / decrease in the populations.
On these Islands we also swim, dive, we snorkel. Francis tried to catch some fish, but in some areas, the fish seem increasingly rare. In ten days, only a Barracuda and Trevally, just enough for a dinner of the crew of Infinity.
A possible explanation for this shortage is increasing sea temperatures, leading to degradation of bio-marine systems. It is clearly visible - we have often dove - the death of some coral reefs in Fiji, which (may) result (r) in the decline of marine biodiversity and the disappearance, as a consequence, of fish.
After completion of the observation and research with the Bird International, Infinity headed to Labasa, Vanua Levu Island, located in the northern part of Vanua Levu. We anchored in a calm bay surrounded by mangroves and reefs.
Mangrove in Labasa
This was the place where Sage, brave and courageous Capitain’s girlfriend, gave birth to her baby girl, Rhian. On this occasion, all the crew except the captain's family was traveling on land. The birth took place quite naturally, aboard the Infinity, out of hospital, no doctor or midwife. At the request of the mother, the captain improvised a pool in the dinghy, sitting on the deck of Infinity, where she remained throughout labor, which lasted for about 12 hours.
The "birth pool"
The beautiful Rhian was born weighing 3.2 kg, close to eight in the morning of May 31, after a beautiful sunrise, in the hands of her - also brave – father. All surrounded only by the... Nature. Just like that, simple and wonderfully natural. Rhian - a Fijian with and American mother and German father - now just over four weeks, is completely healthy, and is heard only when hungry. She has already swam in a spectacular beach called Liku Yasawa VAWA, around coral reefs in dazzling colors.
So are we, Francis and Rachel, living a very simple life, yet rich in experience and learning. We do not need to buy anything, except food and… beer. Rarely need to carry our wallets. Still, we may collect much of what we eat and we're making beer, too. Our first and 2nd batches are maturing and the 3rd batch in secondary fermentation. It is fascinating to discover that we are every day closer to an almost self-sufficiency, and even very close to the goal of living with very little consumption.
Kisses to all,
Raquel
Sevusevu and Cava, the drink of the South Pacific
Sevusevu and Cava, the drink of the South Pacific
Cava is a root which the grog is made from. It’s the main traditional drink of Fiji, and several other cultures in the South Pacific. In the communities we passed, we did have the Cava - or grog - experience. Traditionally, the root of Cava is sun dried and then chewed by the women of the community. So, back to the sun for further drying and finally graded until it reaches a fine powder consistency. To prepare the grog, the powder is mixed with water. The grog is then served by a young villager, chosen by the chief. All in a single coconut-nut made bowl, which is suited to "high tide" or "low tide" according to the drinker request. Visitor’s requests for "high tide" are celebrated by the villagers for the “courage” to face a up topped bowl!
Drinking Cava is an important part of the traditional ritual called Sevusevu. When you arrive on an island or community of authentic culture, before "exploring" the island is highly recommended - in some cases mandatory – to attend to the ritual. Visitors are greeted by the head and some members of the island, usually in the village’s community house.
In Sevusevu, "foreigners" - men and women - and men of the community sit on a mat made of natural fibers, around a big bowl carved in wood. In it is prepared as grog usually drunken for many hours. Participants should always be bare and without any hat or headdress. The men - including visitors who do not want to seem indifferent to the culture of Fiji - wearing the Sulu, a type of sarong, which must cover the legs to below the knees. Women wear a whole body sarong the and also need to have your back, shoulders and arms covered to the height of the half.
Plant used for fabrics manufacturing
During the Sevusevu, gifts - especially bundles of Cava rot - and some important information are exchanged, such as special recommendations on good manners on the island, permission to fish, tips for navigating between coral site, good areas for scuba diving, etc. In general, it seems too formal at the beginning, but soon turns into a joyful and relaxed atmosphere, always watered by grog, and within hours, we have new and true friends. Children invariably cheerful, noisy, curious and smiley, already crammed to play with all visitors.
In many grog sessions we had participated we heard many stories. Even proposals of marriage are common for the crew, as villagers seek out the problems of inbreeding. These included a promise of a "piece of land" – in the most beautiful village we've been: Yasawa-i-rara - done to Raquel. But I was excluded from the proposal; Rachel decided to continue the trip without having a piece of land in paradise. Lucky I am.
Yasawa-i-rara Village
The Fijians are overjoyed drinking the grog, and after a few hours, are very relaxed and "ready for a good sleep." However, the effect is usually mild for us, used to take stronger drinks like caipirinhas. The Fijians emphasize that the grog, unlike alcohol, enable a friendly, peaceful and productive talk with no hangover the next day when they will be, very early, ready to work again.
A big hug to everyone!
Francis
Lavena Village, in Taveuni Island
